‘Every Chef Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.

Tamara Patton
Tamara Patton

Isla Mariner is a seasoned maritime journalist with over a decade of experience covering shipping, ports, and ocean conservation.